Scrambling On North Buttress
Posted by Max Hunter on 08th September, 2015
Yesterday I ran a MTA scrambling workshop (through Alan Halewood) with Rich and Monika Pyne in Glencoe (for CPD points). Rich has been climbing and scrambling for 15 years, so has a lot of experience, and he has recently over the last 2 years taken Monika out for many scrambling days on technical ground. Rich has all kinds of ropework experience (summer, winter, climbing, scrambling, SPA, MR etc). So they made a request to spend the day on North Buttress on the Buachaille, and look at all things scrambling – with pitched climbing in the middle.
We got lucky with the weather, as are most people this week. We had an inversion early in the day, and we walked up through it, as we approached our route. There were already people climbing Agag’s Groove. The inversion gave some jaw dropping beauty of the Highlands – and eventually it cleared.
Monika guided Rich up to the base of the route using a short rope and direct rock belays. On the climb, they alternated leads during the pitched climbing, keeping the pitches very short to help communication (and photography!), and to maximise the number of belays – to increase practice opportunities. After the main chimney, the route turns back to easier scrambling – so, simple scrambling ropework, using just a short rope, slings and HMS carabiners.
I had a great time – it’s great to be out with friends.
As usual we lost some of our lunch to the Buachaille Ravens!