Stag Rocks And Sunglasses. Apex Gully
Posted by Max Hunter on 19th February, 2014
Rich and James going to Coire an t-Sneachda
Fiacaill Buttress area
Today was day 3 of the Glenmore Lodge, Introduction to Winter Climbing course with Marc and Jeremy. With a good forecast we decided to get a slightly earlier start and head over to Stag Rocks. Initially we were in the sun, and I was walking in a base layer and sunglasses – thinking that it was Spring come early! After getting to 1141m at the top of the Fiacaill a’ Choire Chais we were in the cloud and the temp dropped, so it was back to normal procedure with jackets on, poor visibility and compass out! We arrived at Stag Rocks to find that we were the first team there – a pleasant surprise after getting to the crag yesterday to find a crowd! Shortly after us, arrived an MIC assessment team, and a couple of mountaineering teams.
Diagonal Gully gave a good easy access to the lower climbs. It was my first time to the crag, so I looking for particular features on the way down to locate myself. Albino was pretty obvious on the way down, but then I was looking for Apex Gully (III*). I nearly opted for a wrong choice before a little further, I definitely found it. The first pitch was fun up an icy slab, but a little short lived. In the middle of the climb there was a fair bit of grade II ground, but the last pitch more than made up for it. The last pitch was good III ground (with 1/2 moves of IV?). The turf was fully frozen and under some loose cruddy snow there was some excellent neve in patches. The last pitch was poorly protected, but I was grateful for the bulldog and warthog, that I nearly left at base – but I’d read that the cliff was vegetated, and thought that they may be handy. A 1 star climb that I would definitely do again (but Afterthought Arete should be the next III on the list).
Buried Twin Ribs area
Fluted Buttress area
Aladdin’s Buttress area
Marc on the grade II area
Jeremy belaying Marc on the last pitch
Marc at the top of the climb