Ledge Route & No.4 Gully (Friday)
Posted by Max Hunter on 07th January, 2017
Working for Jagged Globe – Private Guiding
Friday was my last day with James and George. After the last 2 days, I wanted to try to put it all together with their last day. They have done quite a few things in the Alps, and they’ll be back there soon to summit some more hills. We had a good discussion about the right place for various techniques for tackling terrain – soloing, moving together, death roping(?!), walking with the rope on, pitching and glacier travel.
I thought a great journey to look at a lot of this and developing judgement, would be Ledge Route and down No.4 Gully. The initial slab on Ledge Route was brilliantly iced up, so that gave James and George a good short grade II ice climb. However, a little higher up, after a few more ledges, it made sense, on balance, to take the crampons off, as well as the rope. There were many places which were icy on the route, so still a great deal of care was needed to stay secure. Many of the rocks were still verglassed.
Number 4 Gully was in a friendly state, being stepped out and without a cornice. The snow was now softer and so a quick easy descent was possible for the sure footed team.
And so finished a great 3 days, where George and James have seen, done and practiced a large number of skills, but more importantly they have practiced and done a large amount of challenging decision making – which is so crucial for safe adventures in the British winter hills. Hopefully they’ll be back to Scotland soon.
George and James approaching Ledge Route
The initial icy slab pitch on Ledge Route
Icy but not snowy on Ledge Route
The Jenga Blocks are still there
Scrambling in the rain
An easy descent of Number 4 Gully
George
James